Buying a Gibson Les Paul Classic, Please Help!

docrichards · Joined: 21 Feb 2005 Posts: 8 Location: Lafayette, CO

Well, Megadeth, you're on your own with this question. Gibson's quality has improved over the last few years, so whatever product you get, you're likely to get an excellent product. I ordered my '57 reissue black beauty on New Years Eve through an online dealer, and was very pleased. As some of folks who've replied have indicated, hearing the instrument is very important...particularly on a Les Paul. Prior to this one, I've owned two other LP customs I bought new...one from Guitar Center, which I was not happy with. There are a lot of different dealers, and you probably should check around and see if one will let you make a deposit before your drop the entire price of the instrument. Otherwise find a dealer that has a no fault return policy if you are not happy with the instrument.

enash · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia

Another way of looking at it in practical terms. If you want to know what is value for money, go to a 2nd hand store. Look at the stock an see what holds it's value. Ask the staff as to what turns over and what gathers dust. I'm willing to stand corrected but my experience is that Gibson / Fender always hold value and always sell.

Agree previous . Nothing screams with more tone than a cranked EL34 Tube Amp or is cleaner/brighter than a 6L6 amp. The Amp is as important as the guitar as are the speakers - try using the amp with a different cabinet. I acquired a 16 ohm 12 inch 30 watt late 60's Rola speaker in its own cabinet. I used it with my 60 watt marshall JCM TSL. Being careful not to overdrive - it was an entirely different and beautiful sound.

One thing I do not understand is the guys with 100watt plus amps and 4x12 cabinets etc working pubs and small / medium venues. I have never needed more than arround a 50 watt combo (and yes I do play loud some times). If the venue is bigger mike or DI to the P.A. (if comparing Tube to Solid State multiply SS output by arround 150% to get equivalent). Most Tube combo's arround this size weigh about 25kgs/ 55 lbs. This is as much as you will want to carry - much heavier at the end of the night. However, hats off to those sucessful enough to play bigger venues

lee_UK · Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 7:50 pm Post subject:

good post enash, one thing i would say is that you get a bit more 'headroom' on a 100watt amp, if you need a cleaner sound then the higher output amp will definatly help there.
i would have to disagree on the comparision between tranistor amp and valve amp loudness, 100watts is 100watts whether it is coming out of a tranny amp or a valve amp, you will get the same decibels out of each.

enash · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia

Point taken Mr Lee

I should have qualified my comment on Tube vs Solid State. In clean sound they are comparable. In overdriven sound a valve transitions into overdrive in an "analogue way". Transitors "peak" and "cut off" in a "digital" way. I lack a better technical descritpion - but lsiten to the two. You can drive a 50 watt Tube amp real hard and it will still "sing". Drive a 50 watt transistor amp hard and it will hurt your ears.

In technically measurable terms a watt is a watt. In terms of sound percieved there is a big diference - at least to my ears. But if there was one right answer we could all have one guitar and amp soviet style and where would the fun be in that.

Can any body recommend a windows based software for reading guitar / bass tab / midi files. I have looked at music time but I am totallly confused by the enourmous number of things available. I am looking for the commonly used application.

Cheers

lee_UK · Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:11 am Post subject:

i agree, valves sing when they break, the distortion is harmonious and a joy to listen to, the hotter they get the hotter the tone gets, transistor amps 'clip' and sound awful, the 2 sounds just dont compare.
Sorry cant help you with the TAB software.

Megadeth45 · Groupie Joined: 06 Feb 2005 Posts: 34

Hey, well guitarcenter called, they had a classic in lightburst that just came in, beautiful guitar. so now im a happy owenr, thanks for your help.

lee_UK · Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 10:50 pm Post subject:

you are probably only the 10 millionth happy customer with a Les Paul, Gibson?? you cant go wrong, can you?

enash · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia

Good luck to you. You will not be sorry.

Anybody got an opinion / experience with after market coil splitting on a les paul. I am thinking of the push / pull volume knob type not the horrible swithces on the pickup. I know a luthier I trust to do it but I am unsure. I currently use a tele (86 Jap Fender with EMG active pickups and strat style saddles) which is very nice but I get sick of swapping. Especially when the singer changes the set list on a whim I start to look very indecisive. My theory so far is the right tool for the job and don't fix what aint broke.

1bassleft · Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 1:47 am Post subject:

enash, far be it for me..., don't shoot me, I'm only the bass player...

In other words, ignore this stuff if you like. The push-pull coil tap makes sense because it's reversible and leaves no extra holes. A good solder-monkey can do it, if luthier man wants silly money. Specify that the original work is de-soldered, not snipped, and have the original pot bagged and given back to you. These things are important if you sell on.

Assuming you're thinking of the bridge pup, but have a look at www.guitar-electronics.com for any conceivable.

enash · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia

Thanks - I have been told that the Ceramic 496R and 500T pickups have two conductor wiring on the factory fitted classics which I believe means no easy way of Coil tapping - any thoughts out there.

Also, on changing set up. I have tried bringing the strings over the top of the stop bar rather than through which required lowering the stop bar to get enough fall from the bridge to hold the strings in place. I have no other reason to do this other than to try it. Some folks have claimed that this creates smoother/ less fall and longer length from bridge to stopbars which lead to lower string tension. I can't see any logic in this - but I do feel there is less tension (easier bending) and a slightly brighter tone. Am I deceiving myself?.

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